Critic’s Notebook - A Houston Restaurant Lets No Parts Go to Waste - Review - NYTimes.com: "Feast would, in fact, be a gamble anywhere in America, because the menu doesn’t just slip in a little tongue here, a little liver there. It’s a full-on, extended ode to offal that has no real peer in New York, Chicago, Los Angeles and other major cities that pride themselves on their epicurean adventurousness.
Feast (219 Westheimer Road, 713-529-7788, feasthouston.com) embraces nose-to-tail cooking so thoroughly that when I ordered amberjack, what I got was the fish’s severed head, not much smaller than my own, with an unblinking, accusatory eye staring right at me. If “The Godfather” had been set at sea, this is what the potentate who displeased Don Corleone might have found under his sheets."
Hat tip to Jeff Meyerson.
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